![]() In the case of external insults, however, the internal defense mechanisms are unable to counteract the overproduction of ROS, and the risk of oxidative stress increases. The skin naturally produces enzymatic (catalase, glutathione peroxidase, and superoxide dismutase) and non-enzymatic (such as α-tocopherol, ubiquinone, ascorbate, and glutathione) antioxidants to protect itself from ROS. The pathophysiological mechanisms involved in photoaging are complex, and the damage caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) to cellular structures (nuclear and mitochondrial DNA, membranes, and proteins) are widely recognized as the cause of the destabilization of normal cell functions (signaling, transcription factors, and the expression of certain genes) or cell death. All these alterations are responsible for the loss of biomechanical properties of the skin, mainly viscoelasticity, the relaxation of its texture, and the formation of solar lentigo and wrinkles. ![]() Substantial changes in aged skin affect the epidermis and dermis, such as irregular thickening, uneven pigmentation, decrease in hyaluronic acid and collagen, accumulation of abnormal and highly thickened elastic fibers (actinic elastosis). Chronic exposure, especially of the face, to sunlight and pollution or lifestyle habits (smoking, diet) accelerates the aging process (photoaging) that the skin undergoes physiologically (chronoaging). The skin interacts daily with environmental factors and its appearance reflects the well-being of the organism and can affect the social life of an individual. With no negative skin reactions and highly significant effects on skin elasticity, wrinkles, and moisturization, the CSE-based emulsion achieved very satisfying outcomes representing a promising functional formulation for skin care. The selected natural ingredient combined with the designed formulation and the optimized preparation method has led to a final product that satisfies the physico-chemical and technological requirements underlying the safety of use and the formulative stability over time. ![]() A significant skin moisturizing effect was detected while the skin barrier function was preserved. An improvement was observed in skin biomechanical properties such as hydration, skin elasticity and a reduction in the periorbital wrinkles in 30 days without altering the skin barrier function, sebum, pH, and erythema values. A single-blind, placebo-controlled, monocentric study was designed to evaluate the skin tolerability and the skin performance of the CSE-loaded emulsion on healthy human volunteers. The emulsion was stable and had suitable physicochemical and technological properties for dermal application and CSE showed no cytotoxicity in spontaneously immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) at active concentrations. The study focused on the development and characterization of an O/W emulsion for skincare containing Castanea sativa spiny burs extract (CSE) as functional agent.
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